Somewhere in the open tracts of the Kajzerica section of Zagreb, where all of the streets look alike, in a spacious basement at Bencekovićeva 28 is the restaurant Didov San. Everything here is comfortable and neat, from the national costumes, the logs, the casks, and other artefacts, so that after a glass of good wine, you don't know if you are going to get out in Zagreb or in Split. Pencil drawings and dried vegetables on the walls capture your attention until the arrival of the very pleasant waiter, who is ready to list absolutely everything that might interest you. And since that means specialties from Imotski, Neretva, Cetina, and Dalmatia Zagora – it means that a real feast awaits you.
And it is really like that. A richly detailed menu that includes snails, frogs, eels, meat specialties and a dish that is called Grandpa's and Grandma's Skillet.
The speakers are playing klapa music, and there is always a fresh and soft Kujunđuša being poured. For the most well-known specialty, brudet of eel, you have to wait 45 minutes, but since we were in a hurry, that will have to be the very next thing on our "to do" list, after which we survived our encounter with the huge portions of food.
For a starter, homemade uštipci (deep-fried, salted dough), a simple dish, but always magnificent, especially when combined with kajmak, cheese iz mišine (sheep cheese matured and preserved in lambskin) or cheese iz kace (aged in a wooden tub). There are so many warm and cold appetizers that you do not even have to look at the main dishes for a week, from prosciutto, pancetta, sausage, risotto, and pasta to salted sardines and octopus salad.
Everything was at the highest level, a very large selection of all that comes to mind. So the choice came down to various grilled offerings, cod, cutlets, steaks, or medallions – but it somehow unbelievable easily fell on the frogs in prosciutto. A fussy, tender delicacy, with a meat that is something between chicken and lobster, all wrapped up like Superman’s cape in a very salty prosciutto. What a delight.
Special praise for the red house wine, a Vranac blend, and some local Imotski varieties.
For dessert there is polusuha, a traditional Imotski cake. It is a wonder among cakes, delectable, moist, succulent, and with all of the aromas of Dalmatia. You can also order crepes, chocolate cake and even tufahije, a Bosnian dessert of stewed apples filled with walnut and topped whipped cream.
Zagreb does not have a true Italian or French restaurant, but if you have ever been hungry in the area around Imotski, then at Didov San you will feel just perfect.
Author of photography: Igor Kalj/Pixsell
Contact number: 01/653 6577
Working hours: Monday-Sunday: 10:00 - 24:00 h
Region: City of Zagreb
Address: Bencekovićeva 28; 10000 Zagreb
Price range: 100-200kn