“The pilchard has its meaning as well as the man. And its own way. Man walks on the land, and pilchard swims in the sea. Whatever distance we walk, the trail we leave is important. Therefore, eveywhere, “little” people as well as small fish are great. For Rosé made of Plavac Mali, we put a shark fin on the pilchard. To designate it as great! This is what our people do, because pilchard has always been there whenever we needed it. It doesn’t care that it is small. That’s why it is Great!”
This is how Rosé of Plavac Mali produced by Ivana Krajančić is described by her father Luka, a charismatic wine whisperer, among whose wine or verse beauty one can distinguish with difficulty. The small fish that means life to the islanders rightfully has a shark fin on its label. The expected fruity freshness of raspberries and strawberries interweaves with the aroma of ripe, crackling watermelon, after which a recognisable, this time gentle and youtful taste of Plavac Mali stays in the mouth for a long time.
Luka started producing Plavac in 2008, and after long cold maceration, wine used to age in wooden barrels of 225 and 500 litres, which made tannins more pleasurable, and fruit aromas more emphasised.
A story of Korčula as a black island of white wines is related to several white varieties, especially to Pošip, an autochtonous variety of Korčula whose both parents – Bratkovina and Zlatarica – come from the same island. Here, Pošip appears in several versions, or, as Luka would say, in several different characters: from fresh through serious wines aged in wooden barrels to macerated and semi-sweet wines. Krajančić has several labels of Pošip, and connoisseurs of good wine are mostly aware of Intrada, in which aromas and typical variety freshness have been preserved owing to cold meceration. Richness of the aromas of pear, self-grown vineyard peach, fresh fig, white flowers and the emphasis on herbs, among which mostly marjoram and elderberries, complement the special style of this balanced wine of pure body, which pairs well with the Mediterranean cuisine, especially brudets and crustaceans.
Pošip sur lie makes it clear on the nose alone that it is special wine: notes of ripe citrus fruit and island macchia interweave with ripe fruits, herbs and discrete aroma of vanilla. Flavours of nuts and salty deflection are introduced with the creamy structure that primarily, on the nose, does not reveal the freshness of citrus and fruit hidden by this wine. The wine is aged and can be consumed alone, though it will see its full swing with large crabs, raw shrimps, snails and similar dishes. This is the first Croatian white dry wine that has won Gloden Medal in Bordeaux and has thus responded in its best to the question whether Pošip should age in wooden barrels.
The Statut is a special vintage of Pošip that does not occur every year, which ages for 18 months in its own sediment in two 500 litre wooden, American oak barrels. Having been removed from the sediment, 800 bottles of wine are bottled, which is a significant link to 800 years of the Statute of the Town of Korčula – the oldest legal document in this part of Europe.
Luka gave the name to semi-sweet Opera of Pošip in honour to the classical music, which he listens together with his wines while they rest in the cellar in Zavalatica, and which together with another miraculous orange Pošip from 2012 fully encircles the story of the utilised potential of a variety that has yet to take its place in wine cards.
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Address Zavalatica 313, 20273 Čara