While strolling the undulating stone alleys of Split, we were overcome by the desire to try out food at an original Dalmatian tavern. Having said that, we reached a sign that says “Fetivi”. It can’t get any better than this because this name refers to roots and being connected to home. While trying to locate the best table, we went inside a small yet pleasantly designed space with roof tiles on the wall, smiley faces looking at you from the photos, antique lamps on wooden tables, guitars and other details that’ll make a happy childhood come to your mind We reached the terrace that changes its appearance according to the season of the year. It acts as a courtyard in summer. But when it gets cold, it turns into a winter garden. The roof is lowered when the bora starts blowing, but you’ll still be able to smell the lemon trees growing in clay pots. At least that’s what we’d been told by the pleasant host once he saw our eyes filling with curiosity. He escorted us to our table and told us that Fetivi is a family-run tavern. It’s run by people who used to be butchers and fish experts, and they’ve spent their entire lives overlooking the fish market from the renowned Marmont Street.
Just one look of the menu will suffice to get a confirmation that Fetivi is pretty adamant when it comes to preserving the tradition of Dalmatian spiza and keeping their affordable prices intact. This was recognised by Michelin inspectors who awarded it the Bib Gourmand designation for this reason. We ordered the house wine that tasted excellent when paired with tiny fried fish – sand smelt. This simple yet irresistible dish is the best appetizer at tavern Fetivi. This Dalmatian version of “chips” made us remember that beauty lies in the simple things. Considering that there’s always something new that gets entangled in the fishing nets, it would be best to consult the waiter as to what to have for the main course as opposed to sticking the menu. Should you opt for phenomenal fish, which the tavern has in abundance, the hosts will help you decide by showing you the fish on a platter prior to preparation. This is exactly what transpired at the adjacent table while we were waiting for the main course.
After having a few sips from a glass smelling of local grape varieties, it was high time to meet the star of the day - cuttlefish broth with polenta that smells of sea, laurel and white wine. Our conversation ceased with every morsel we had. This shouldn’t come as a surprise given that everything is prepared just the way it’s supposed to be – with local ingredients that haven’t lost any of their freshness. Humming coming from the kitchen also contributed to creating the nice energy in this restaurant, which further corroborated that great food hinges on the person preparing it needs to be in a great mood.
Contact number: 021/355-152
Working hours: MON - SUN: 12:00 - 23:00
Address: Ul. Tomića stine 4, 21000 Split
Price range: more than 300kn