Stari Fijaker

Đurđa Bečirević
Price range:

Stari Fijaker is a rare place where old Zagreb still lives on. While they’re walking from the city’s main thoroughfare towards the restaurant, which opened its doors in the 19th century, very few people are aware that this street is where city forts, residential houses and palaces used to be.
August Šenoa, the renowned novelist and short story writer, used to wander this street. Today “Fijaker”, a restaurant named after the carriage used to carry gentlemen, is a place you come if you want to have gablec (a cult term in Zagreb’s culinary tradition). Gablec may be linked to brunch. Although it can last well into the afternoon. The residents of Zagreb have always been fond of stews. And there’s no lack of stews in Fijaker.

Lamb kalja is a deviation from prevailing Zagreb and Zagorje cuisine. This seasonal vegetable soup is a classic Lika dish that invigorates and nourishes. Its winter version contains cabbage, whereas the summer version is prepared with broccoli, chard, cauliflower and just a few potatoes. Venison stew is one of the autochthonous dishes marked with the latter “a” on the menu. If you run out of gnocchi that relentlessly soak up the delicious sauce, your table is supplied with homemade čvarkuše (scones with cracklings) and Varaždin breadsticks so you can enjoy every last drop. You can also have a typical peasant’s lunch: pork knuckle, sarma (a dish of grape, cabbage, monk's rhubarb or chard leaves rolled around a filling usually based on minced meat) and sausages, which are bound to satisfy everybody’s appetite. Foodies yearning for a trip through traditional dishes prepared by Croatian homemakers for centuries akin to best chefs can try duck or turkey with mlinci that are so juicy they will melt in your mouth.

When it comes to desserts, Fijaker has come up with a solution for those guests who prefer salted desserts to sweet ones. Zagorski Štrukli are served with sour cream. Every bite of the tender pastry reveals a story of able hands stretching the pastry across the entire table until it’s wafer-thin and then it’s stuffed with cottage cheese. Nothing beats relishing every morsel and soaking in the special atmosphere of an old restaurant. Miniature carriages hanging on the walls and a natural size carriage at the entrance as if it’s waiting for passengers to take them to new culinary adventures of ancient Zagreb menus all add to the atmosphere.

Author of photography: Sanjin Strukić/ PIXSELL

-- Your Gourmet 365

Contact number: 01/4833-829, 091/1706-401



Working hours: Monday - Saturday
11:00 - 23:00
Sunday and holidays
11:00 - 22:00

Region: City of Zagreb

Address: Mesnička ulica 6; 10 000 Zagreb

Capacity: 125

Price range: 100-200kn

Restaurant description:

Mesnička Street used to be lined with city forts, residential houses and palaces. A place that used to house the city entrance with the so called Mesnička Gate and the chapel of John of Nepomuk. A street where August Šenoa, Zagreb’s most prolific novelist and short story writer, lived and died. Tituš Brezovački, northern Croatia’s most famous writer, was drawn here by the tranquil environment in the late 18th century. It’s always been a stopover where exhausted travellers and guests would stop to get some rest. The restaurant had been here since 1869, whereas older generations of Zagreb residents will be more familiar with “Tri Lovca”, which occupied this location forty years ago. The younger generations will recognise the location as being the site of the first beer house “Stari Fijaker” which was renovated and opened its doors on 25 August 1995 on the occasion of Zagreb’s 900th birthday.

The current proprietors, the Juras family, took charge of renovating and managing Stari Fijaker 900 together with their seventeen employees. Contemporary Mesnička Street is located at the very heart of Zagreb and is just 5 minutes of casual walk away from Ban Jelačić Square. It also connects the Upper and Lower Town.

You’ll be welcomed by the pleasant staff who will offer you homemade dishes typical of Zagreb and Zagorje. The hosts are proud to emphasise that their food preparation is homemade in the true sense of the word. Meat, mlinci, štrukli, gnocchi, noodles, strudels, pies and everything on their menu is made from the very best ingredients.

The family would be more than happy to help you with organising important events such as birthdays, weddings, graduation and provide catering. Come to Stari Fijaker, feel the vibe of old Zagreb and enjoy the excellent atmosphere and home cooking.

Awards and recognitions:

Croatian Autochthonous Cuisine Certificate
Seasonal menu