Toni Boban
Price range:

„We have a good supplier”, said the waiter of NoStress bistro located on the city of Split's Narodni (People's) Square when asked how a 0.375 litre bottle of a renowned champagne can cost 145 kunas. At this price, this bottle cannot be purchased even at shops, and so this lovely pink Champagne became a dessert following a light lunch, thus wonderfully accompanying the enjoyment of Split’s šušur (waves of people strolling and murmuring in the city centre).

Mediterranean towns are like a theatre and NoStress is the mezzanine – said once Ante Tomić, a Croatian novelist and journalist. As Split is a unique city, so is this mezzanine because it offers dishes that are a true feast.

A list entitled “Light Lunch” reminds of a cheerful theatrical play as dishes like beefsteak and homemade ravioli with slow-cooked rooster meat filling are among these. A cheerful connotation can also be found behind the purple octopus cooked in wine and prepared as a salad, and white risotto made of cuttlefish with black ink ice cream. The authors of the menu were very playful when they drew up the name for squid or beefsteak cake or for a dish they named crème brûlée. The latter is similar to rožata (the Croatian custard pudding) but is made of goose liver. They also played with rump steak made of Dalmatian beef. They explained that it is an Istrian variety of beef. Though the names of dishes are quite theatrical, the food would be pity only to watch – it is to be truly enjoyed.

Enjoyment also hides behind a lavish wine list containing a well thought selection of wines from all over Croatia and some very good examples from Slovenia, Italy, and Spain. An equally good selection of beers includes several good imported beers and local ones from craft breweries.

Someone might object to the prices. It is by no means a cheap place but one should be reminded that this is the legendary Pjaca (the local name for the People’s Square), the mezzanine from where a live theatrical play can be admired and enjoyed. Others might be annoyed with a rather slow serving time, as bistro should be a place where one wished to grab something quickly: but they will all be making a mistake as in NoStress bistro they strongly emphasise the fact that they only start preparing a dish after it has been ordered. Besides, whoever is in a rush has not read the name of this bistro and therefore fails to understand the lifestyle in Split.

If you wish to live the Mediterranean, to capture fully this world and its way of thinking, you must step out into a street or a square, sit under a shade and watch the passers-by with a glass of something in your hand – say the owners of NoStress. And they should be listened to. For as long as they are selling Champagne at a price much lower than in wine shops.

Author of photography: Ivo Čagalj/Pixsell

-- Your Gourmet 365

Contact number: 099/4981 888



Working hours: Monday - Sunday: 07:00 AM - 02:00 AM

Region: Dalmatia-Split

Address: Iza lože 9; 21000 Split

Capacity: 80

Price range: 200-300kn

Restaurant description:

The restaurant opened in 2010. All their products are homemade: for example, wholegrain bread and pasta are made of type "00" durum wheat flour and Khorasan wheat known as kamut. They strive to follow modern trends, invest into new technologies, and are not afraid to play with tastes. The homemade sweet and salty ice creams are an excellent accompaniment to dishes. They pay particular attention to their white risotto made of cuttlefish and black ink and white fish ice cream. The fruit and vegetable desserts are unusual, yet exquisite, boasting, and their guests can simultaneously enjoy the delicacies found in the menu and the unique Mediterranean šušur.
They are also very attentive to the choice of wines of autochthonous varieties, as well as to the making of various cocktails and ingenious aperitifs.

Awards and recognitions:

Included in many guides by choosing gastropods.
Seasonal menu